UC Riverside

This thesis looks at three case studies between 1910-2021 by exploring the role that clothing plays in identity. First by looking at the Italian futurist movement between 1910-1933, futurist fashion is used to create a new Italian identity for the future Italian Empire. Secondly, the conversations shift to Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica’s parangolé, a performative garment which seeks to express the wearer’s identity. And lastly, the Spring/Summer Haute couture collection Roots of Rebirth designed by Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, whose work looks to recreate human identity into a form that coevolves with nature. These three case studies explore similarities within garments as they form the wearer’s identity. Garments become a visual representation of identity acting as an intermediary between body and environment. Changing styles, trends and necessities create clothing that reflects the needs of its intended audience.