Quite unlike other metaphors, the food desert has inspired millions of dollars of projects and resulted in thousands of news articles. A staggering amount of ink has been spilled to describe it, study it, and criticize it. It has been mapped and quantified. Supermarkets, urban gardens, and farmers’ markets have been built in its name. It has infiltrated the many ways to conceptualize food inequalities, replacing some and overshadowing others. The relative newness of the metaphor – having only recently emerged in the 1990s – adds to the wonder regarding its swift rise to fame.
“Genealogies of the Food Desert” takes on this curious rise to prominence by tracing how the metaphor became so prolific and materially consequential. Through a discourse and cultural analysis, I excavate the genealogies of the food desert metaphor, from its utterance by residents and community organizers in Glasgow, Scotland to its refracting through broader UK supermarket regeneration schemes, and its eventual journey into US policy through the Healthy Food Financing Initiative and food justice nonprofit building in North Denver. Analytically, I chart the food desert’s transformation from metaphor to discourse, from discourse to policy mechanism, to how the metaphor becomes materially consequential, drawing out the practices and conditions of possibility that fostered semantic and discursive shifts and material mobilizations. Doing so, I stay with the trouble of the food desert metaphor to understand where it comes from, how it reflects and inherits specific worldviews, values, and histories as it emerges and proliferates. More than just an investigation into metaphor, these genealogies demonstrate how metaphors must account for their own histories and must face their own constructions, even if they are made and remade, fashioned and refashioned as they travel geographically, temporally, or politically. Ultimately, this means that the onus is not on metaphors to be better, but rather that the burden is on us – academics, policymakers, non-profit leaders, community organizers – to refuse the spooky metaphors that trick or treat for attention and citations, and to create instead metaphors that can hold the weight of envisioning and enacting more just, equitable, and joy-filled futures.