Coastal modifications to control erosion, maintain navigation channels, and create harbors are often undertaken near surfing breaks. Surfing conditions can be improved by these activities, but they can also adversely affect existing surfing breaks. Jetties are coastal structures that on occasion improve surfing conditions. Even though there is an increasing volume of literature on the ways ordinary waves transform into surfing waves, the mechanics of surfing breaks around jetties has not been explored in detail. Four main types of surfing breaks that are created or enhanced by jetties have been identified. The types are dependent on the length of the jetty relative to surfzone width and the degree to which the ebb delta influences wave propagation. Case studies clearly show the behaviors of the different types of jetty breaks. Monochromatic wave refraction modeling of each site has identified the surfing break components that produce the surfing waves. Understanding the effects of a coastal structure on sediment transport, ecology, water quality, shoreline position, and recreation is important to minimize and mitigate any potential negative effects and to streamline coastal permitting. The effects on surfing conditions are being considered more often as the social and economic value of surfing to coastal communities is realized. This research helps to better predict the impact of jetty construction or alteration on surfing conditions.

Surfing breaks have great social and economic value for coastal communities. In order to preserve and enhance these resources, a common language is needed that will bridge the gap between the colloquial slang of surfers and the technical language of scientists and policy makers. This language is the science of surfing waves and surfing breaks, and the more it is developed and used, the easier relations will be between the interested parties. This paper will create the basis for such a language to be used in future studies of surfing waves and surfing breaks. Surfing waves and surfing breaks are currently understood well enough to predict the effects of coastal modifications on surfing locations and to design artificial surfing reefs. However, the use of this knowledge for more practical applications has been limited. This paper consolidates the literature on the science of surfing waves and surfing breaks in an effort to communicate the basics of this science to coastal planners, engineers and policy makers. First, the types of surfing waves that are preferred by surfers are discussed, including a description of the main surfing wave parameters. Second, it is shown that the wave type determines the surfing skill level required and types of maneuvers that can be performed. Third, the seabed features that cause waves to transform well for surfing are presented.