Scripps Institution of Oceanography

The primary objective of this study is to determine how surfable waves form around jetties. This study has identified the mechanisms that transform ordinary waves into surfing waves around jetties. Each mechanism has a varying degree of influence on wave transformation at different locations. Case studies of four types of surfing breaks are presented to show how these mechanisms can create good surfing waves. The classification types can be used to better understand the impact of jetty construction or modification on neighboring surfing breaks. Previously the specific physical processes that create surfing conditions around jetties had not been articulated in scientific literature. This report is written for coastal scientists and engineers who may or may not have knowledge about surfing and surfing terminology. Providing scientific information about surfing waves and breaks will allow these coastal scientists and engineers to incorporate the effects on surfing into their project’s design. An improved understanding of surfing science will allow the concerns of surfing communities to be better satisfied.